I Moved To Oaxaca

Thursday, November 04, 2004

Goodbye Oaxaca Roadtrip: Day 1
Oax-town - Tehuantepec

Uneventful drive, which in itself is news: Vivani was a sweetheart, no problems. And she actually fits in the half-size airline carrier.

We got to Tehuantepec early, so we got a room at the Oasis, a popular hotel in town. Yeah, the pillows are rags stuffed in a casing, and the shower in the bathroom ... well, I didn't think there was any hot water until G pointed out that the knobs were reversed, and the showerhead aims directly at the toilet, but it's clean, it has windows on both sides of the room to catch the breeze, and grills over the window so we can leave them open without Vivani escaping. All for $130 pesos a night. Not bad, not bad.

After a really yummy comida at Comedor Perla across the street -- G's pork was so good he wouldn't even let me try it, the bastard -- and a nap we set off to examine the church founded by Cosiopi, the last Zapotec king (his dad was king when Cortes came marching through) and an early Christian convert (later burned at the stake by the Dominicans -- thanks, guys!). Our guidebook says that the church and convent Cosiopi built is probably the only church in Mexico funded by a native. Anyway, it still has a lot of the original frescos inside, including a great fresco of JC on the cross in a field of magueys. Upstairs in the ex-convento, now the Casa de Cultura, they have a little museum of local costumes and archeological finds. And, of course, what everyone did in the Revolution. It's actually a very pretty building, and it was crammed full of kids taking classes, everything from regional dance, guitar, Zapoteco ... and karate! And all sneaking glances at the gigantes.

I wondered out loud why on this, our second visit, the town seemed so much more pleasant. I mean, for one, the weather: last time we were here it was oppressively hot and humid, and this time there's been quite a breeze, so it's nice and cool. Then G reminded me that the last time we were here Izzy was dying and we were arguing over what to do. Oh.

We were too full from our excellent, $60 for two comida to eat dinner, so we just got a jamaica from a vendor in the plaza and watched other people chow down on garnachas. But tomorrow, garnachas for sure!


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