Gringolandia. Some call it a blight on the Oaxacan landscape, but no matter what you think sooner or later you smash yourself on its treacherous rocks looking for a fast-food fix, or bulk groceries, or a dozen-count box of blue Bic pens.

Lately somebody or other has been trooping through the streets with a pair of banners railing against the creeping globalization of McDeath. Myself, I feel pretty ambivalent about it. Is an Extra Value Meal #3 wrong, but a ice-cold coke from the corner miscelanea right? Is calling Domino's for home delivery wrong, but buying imported New Zealand butter right? Starbucks bad but 7-11 coffee good? I mean, bad coffee must have its fans, because it's still around and going nowhere as far as I can tell. Or those awful Bimbo hamburgers -- Ronald McDonald has simply been unable to drive little Bimbo from the streets of Oaxaca.

It's one of those paper-or-plastic questions with no right answer. So while you're thinking about that, take a look at this.