I Moved To Oaxaca

Wednesday, April 21, 2004

Ah, tlayudas!

G-man and I just ate lunch at a little sidewalk stand around the corner from this internet cafe. I've had my eye on it for some time, as the seƱora always has a crowd. She makes empanadas, taquitos, memelas, and tlayudas on a comal; folks eat standing around, leaning on cars or sitting in nearby doorways. G had a huge chorizo taquito and I had a gargantuan chorizo tlayuda, and I think it was one of the best tlayudas I've ever had. So now I'm set, because I know where to get a good tlayuda in this town from 11am to 5am. Can the breakfast tlayuda be far off?

Before lunch we were at the downtown market shopping. G was looking for canvas to use at CEVIAREM tomorrow; we wanted some plantas aquaticas for the cistern because the spider plants are rotting away; and it's magazine day. So we bought the magazines straight away, then went to three or four big fabric stores near the zocalo looking for canvas. Nada. On a lark we decided to stroll through the Juarez market on the off chance we saw someone selling canvas. Besides, the aquarium Greg wanted to go to was on the far side, so it was either walk through the market or walk around it -- which we really don't like to do since Greg's encounter with the random dangling pipe.

We walked past the ladies selling peppers and chapulines, past the stalls of soccer balls and jerseys, past the kids costumes. Hey, a fabric stall! We went over and (inadvertantly) woke up the tiny, elderly man sleeping behind the counter and showed him our sample. Yes, I have mante, he said. He showed us a bolt and, after fingering it, we decided it would do. How much? Eighty-five a meter. Eight dollars and fifty cents a yard for cotton canvas? Too expensive, we said. Oh, I have another bolt, it's cheaper, he said, and pulls out a bolt of identical fabric. Thirty-five a meter. Okay, we'll take two! And some of these way-cool bandannas: wild, multi-color paisley and floral prints and others with Juan Diego and the apparition of the BVM and nopales and her old church and new church in Mexico City. (If you want one, and if you like the BVM you know you do, e-mail me.)

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